25 May, 2012

Coyoaca'n- So Boho!


As I have mentioned before Boris' paternal side of the family is from Mexico City.  They are scattered all over the city but their roots lie in Coyoacan.  We have spent a lot of time here and for me it is always the highlight when going to Mexico.  I am not one for lots of crowds, busy streets and traffic.  Like I said before I am a country girl and I need open sky and lots of greenery to be happy.  Coyoacan is my breath of fresh air each time we visit the City.  Now don't get me wrong, we have had a lot of fun in and around the City, we visited the Cathedral, the pyramid, Xochimilco is fantastic, Los Leones was a gorgeous drive... Coyoacan is just something special.


My favorite time to visit Coyoacan is on a Sunday.  That is when the district is everything that you would expect it to be and more.  Vendors roll their carts out to the streets, everything is for sale; Meringue, dulces de leche, snacks and fruit, birdy fortune tellers, art of all different styles and methods, handcrafted jewelry... even puppies!

The streets are just bursting with color and life, it is a spectacular show.  There is a plaza where they sell art and on Sundays they have a live band in one corner and the people come out and dance in the plaza.  They are such beautiful dancers and they are dressed to the teeth!  Watching these two >>> was like taking a step back in time.  I could have watched them dance all day!  They floated like two butterflies swirling in the breeze...I don't think that their feet really ever touched the ground.

Of course there are many touristic things to do in Coyoacan and I highly recommend them all!  But... there are just some things that you MUST do when you go.  Tacos de Canasta are better in Coyoacan than anywhere else in the city!  Typically only available in the morning, but you want to get them when they are hot anyway.  You will find a man on just about any given street corner in and around Coyoacan.  He has a bicycle with a gigantic basket strapped to the back.  You know it is the right basket by the blue plastic peeking out from around the edges.  He has two jars of salsa hanging from the basket or the front of his bike.  Tacos de Canasta typically come in a few different favors; beans, potatoes, adobo potatoes (my favorite), and chicharon en salsa verde (Boris' favorite). Don't be shy!  Order 2 of each!  The tacos go fast and it is not something you want to order just one of as it is hard to get back in line for just one or two more tacos. Try the salsa but be careful!!!  It may look like innocent guacamole but that stuff will melt your lips right off of your face...no joke!

Since you got up early for tacos and you have a lot of sight seeing to do, you are likely going to need some coffee.  Cafe El Jarocho is where you want to go.  They roast their own beans and they have been doing it for years!  Don't pull a Starbucks order here, this is good quality coffee, get it black or with milk- period.

All of your touring will certainly make you hungry and very soon it will be time for lunch.  There are many places to eat in Coyoacan but for your first visit there is one place you must go-Tostadas Coyoacan at the Coyoacan Market!  We make a special trip every time we visit Mexico City.   This stand is so busy and so famous that they actually have four stands in the same location of the market.  Don't go anywhere else...it is just not the same thing!  You will find platters piled high like little pyramids of finger licking goodness.  Pace yourself...there are a lot of options to choose from and it is really hard to pick just one or two toppings.  You make your choice and get out your baseball mitt because those Tostadas come flying at you!  They also offer wonderful drinks of aguas and liquados; my personal favorite is a chia, that is a lemonada with chia seeds...very refreshing and the chia gives you just another little kick of energy for your afternoon touring.
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